Julian Sisofo - Recipes

January 19th, 2020

I left the house dressed with dusty Ugg slippers, old sweatpants and a bleach-stained black hoodie. Four of us packed into a small jeep-like shell of a car. You would think the car was driving super fast down the road... the way my uncle shifts gears and the loud sounds that came from the engine. No. This old car was around for all of my uncle’s life.

We started this special morning at the bar (cafe), which happened to border my family’s town Sant’Angelo in Formis, Caserta. One of us was a butcher and the others were my cousins Roberto and Carlo. They walked into the bar with their trusty boots and we all ordered espresso except for Carluccio the butcher who urged for a shot of bitter liquor. These people are all native to Caserta. It's only my lucky treat to enjoy a cafe Napoletana every once in a while. When you are left with the last drop of espresso, make sure to whirl the cup incorporating the thick crema that sat along the insides of the cup. An Italian coffee can boost energy for at least a good two hours. Nonetheless it’s only 40 cents a cup.

We arrived at a peaceful orchard where the morning fog still blanketed the ground. Carluccio immediately unraveled a bag and layed out all of his different knives. Behind him, a near 100 gallon pot of water was already boiling. My cousin Roberto came hours earlier to place it on the fire. This property was a farm where one of my distant cousins lives. They raise a special type of animal all year long for this new year season tradition. I was here to meet that animal.

Approaching a small cement house I was soon to be introduced to the pig that was going to be slaughtered. These four beautiful pigs looked unusually clean. Not to mention, these pigs were fed a diet of organic vegetable scraps, stale bread, and pig feed. I then noticed Carluccio hooked the back hoof of the biggest one he eyeballed as the distant cousin backed the tractor towards them. That tractor raised this pig high above the clementine trees that surrounded. I was worried for the other pigs that squealed and stared. Those pigs watched the whole process.

It was my first time seeing an animal die in front of me. The gentle incision made by Carluccio did it all. Boiling blood poured from the neck like a waterfall. Hitting the cold ground, the blood created steam clouds that hit us all in the face. The sun rays fought trying to penetrate the steam. I felt a bit warmer. I looked at the others’ expressions. It made me realize that it isn’t as bad as it seems. This is food. This animal will provide comfort; the centerpiece for great occasions spent with family and friends. My cousin Roberto and his wife Grazia are keeping this tradition in our family to pass to the next generation.

The closer you get to know the product you are cooking, the more love you feel with food.